TOGO
Hapsidophrys smaragdinus (Emerald Snake)
Togo
23 May - 4 June 2025
Togo is a small, yet colourful and lively country in West Africa with a population of around 8 million. Most people make a living from farming and there are a lot of colourful markets full of fruits and yams. The capital city, Lomé is on the Atlantic coast and more inland there are hills with waterfalls and quite some lush forests. When André first said he would like to go to Togo, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but excited nonetheless. After careful reading, preparing and a lot of consulting with each other and experts in the area, we, André, Dickson and myself, start our incredible exploration of a lovely country. Togo here we come!
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Lomé
23rd May 2025
We all made it safely to Lomé! It’s super hot and really humid. You can feel the rain hanging in the air. We’re hoping it’ll start soon, so that more herps will come out by the time we really start our herping adventure tomorrow. Luckily we didn’t have to wait long for some activity: the first reptiles appeared within seconds. Wherever we looked, there are Common Agamas (Agama agama). Our accommodation has two giant Spurred Tortoises (Centrochelys sulcata) wandering around, they’re native to Togo, but sadly extinct in the wild here. We also spot a few Five-lined Skinks (Trachylepis quinquetaeniata) and a little Fisher’s Dwarf Gecko (Lygodactylus fisheri).
We went shopping for some basic goods and find that Lomé has a ‘Champion’ Supermarket where you can get everything you can think of. Even the Dutch ‘Stroopwafels’ and other very Dutch cookies! I will definitely come back and fill my suitcase before we leave!
We officially kick off our Togo adventure with a visit to the herpetology department at Lomé University. It’s clear that there is a lot of herp diversity here, but still not much has been studied. It was great to meet the local experts, hear their stories, and learn from them. Many thanks to Professor Segnagbiato and Assou for their help and patience.
(from left to right) Assou, André, Prof. Segniagbeto, Mirthe and Dickson
Because ‘fetish’ is such a big tradition in Togo, we visit one of the many fetish markets. We were honestly shocked by the number of reptiles and amphibians we see: dried vipers, chameleons, cobras, frogs… it’s tough to see for anyone who loves wildlife. But we also understand it’s part of the local culture, and we’re just guests here.
In the afternoon, we drive to Tsévié. We drop our bags, jump back in the car, and head out for our first night search. On the way to a swampy area, we keep stopping the car for frogs on the road. All, but one, of them turn out to be African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis). The other one is a beautiful and big Galam white-lipped Frog (Amnirana galamensis). Our local guide couldn’t stop laughing and told us we’d be seeing loads more. We find out why soon enough: the swamp is absolutely packed with frogs! With every step, frogs jump in all directions. The sound is unreal, and all the glowing frog eyes in the dark make it feel like magic.
We spot a baby Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis), Western Hinged Terrapin (Pelusios castaneus), Hissing Sand Snake (Psammophis mossambicus), and a stunning Smith’s Bush Snake (Philothamnus smithii). But the amphibians steal the show. We find many gorgeous bright red West African Rubber Frogs (Phrynomantis microps), Common toads (Sclerophrys regularis), Tellini’s Grass Frog (Ptychadena tellenii), Bibron’s Grass Frog (Ptychadena bibroni), Allen's Puddle Frog (Phrynobatrachus alleni), Green Tree Frog (Leptopelis viridis), and the absolute highlight: loads of Senegal Running Frogs (Kassina senegalensis) in amplexus!
We go to bed tired but happy. What a first day!
Tsévié
24th May 2025
After a good night’s sleep, we head out again in the morning for some daytime herping. We of course hope it will be as good as last night. We explore an agricultural area filled with tall palm trees. Unfortunately, the morning proves less productive, and we only manage to spot two Guinea Whriting Skinks (Mochlus guineensis).
Still hopeful, we set out again in the evening for another walk. This time we visit another swampy area, and the night turns out to be productive again. Our first amphibian of the evening is another stunning adult Galam White-lipped Frog (Amnirana galamensis). Nearby, a Senegal Skink (Trachylepis affinis) sleeps on top of a shrub, something none of us has ever seen before.
We come across many frogs again, and the size and numbers of African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis) is again impressive. The evening continues to be good with several frog species: we find Pyjama Spiny Reed Frog (Afrixalus vittiger), along with grass frogs Ptychadena tellinii and P. bibroni,, Marbled Piglet Frogs (Hemisus marmoratus) and Common toads (Scelophrys regularis). And again we encounter frogs in amplexus. This time the West African Rubber Frog (Phrynomantis microps).
Also the reptiles do not disappoint tonight. We see an adult Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis) and high in a tree we find a beautiful, blue-ish Bright Bush Snake (Philothamnus nitidus) sleeping. On our way back, André and I stopped to observe our local guide trying to catch some frogs (let’s be honest, catching frogs is quite the skill!?) when we are distracted by a beautiful young Ball Python (Python regius) in the bushes. It’s vivid colours and pattern is out of this world. Definitely one of the highlights we hoped to find this trip!
When we continue our walk back to the car, I spot a frog and I tell André in Dutch that there is a ‘kikker’. Dickson, who is walking behind me and speaks a bit of Dutch these days too, replies with ‘snake’. I try to explain to him that a ‘kikker’ is a frog, but he keeps insisting it’s a snake. It took a bit of time before we realized that I spotted a frog on the same branch as he saw a sleeping snake. Our attention went to the snake, which turned out to be a White-lipped Snake (Crotaphopeltis hotambouia). The frog jumped away in the process, but looked a lot like a Dark-bellied Reed Frog (Hyperolius fusciventris).
Tsévié
25th May 2025
Today is Sunday and it turns out that this part of Togo almost completely shuts down because a lot of people are going to Church. We take the morning to analyse our first records and excitedly start our herping walk in the afternoon again. Again, the day-herping doesn’t bring us much. We walk along a little stream, but there is a lot of human activity around this area. People say they are seeing lots of snakes here, but unfortunately we do not have any luck. We spot a tiny Common toad (Scelophrys regularis) in a puddle and a Senegal Skink (Trachylepis affinis).
The evening starts with a remarkable sighting. Dickson and our local guide get out of the car to shine their torches as the guide claimed there should be crocodiles in the river below the viaduct. It is rather clear there are no crocodiles, but Dickson spots a tiny green snake high up in a tree. How does he do that?! It turns out to be a Slender Bush Snake (Philothamnus heterolepidotus). A gorgeous little thing!
Since we had such a lovely walk yesterday, we decide to go back to the same area. We find a variety of new frogs: Striped Spiny Reed Frog (Afrixalus dorsalis), many Natal Dwarf Puddle Frogs (Phrynobatrachus natalensis) and Mascarene Grass Frog (Ptychadena mascareniensis). We also find another, this time bigger, White-lipped Snake (Crotaphopeltis hotambouia). And as a surprise to us all, on our way back the little frog (kikker) from yesterday was sitting at the exact same spot again. This time we manage to take a good picture and we’re able to positively identify it as a Dark-bellied Reed Frog (Hyperolius fusciventris).
Tsévié to Sokodé
26th May 2025
Today is a full day of traveling. We drive to Sokodé, which is more inlands. The area becomes dryer and the scenery looks more like jungle here. Unfortunately we see two dead snakes on the road: an Olive Sand Snake (Psammophis mosambicus) and a Ball Python (Python regius).
We receive a very warm welcome at our hotel as a Common Agama (Agama agama) is sitting on the doormat in front of the entrance. The hotel is definitely more basic, but we have all the necessities we need. Unfortunately the food, however, turns out to be a bit harsh on our tummies and all of us are starting to feel the consequences of herping in non-touristy countries. But of course we push through! So far it’s totally worth it!
Common Agama (Agama agama)
Dickson decides to go out for a night stroll alone and finds Green Tree Frogs (Leptopelis viridis) in amplexus, a Natal Puddle Frog (Phrynobatrachus natalensis), Variable Helmeted Terrapin (Pelomedusa variabilis), and a frog that we were not able to identify. Luckily, we do not go a day without a snake yet as he finds a Grant's File Snake (Goniotophis granti).
Sokodé
27th May 2025
Today, we visit Fazao-Malfakassa National Park. Despite the fact that we leave early today, we do not head out on foot before 10.30. We have an appointment with one of the rangers at their ranger station. We, however, find the ranger a few hundred meters before the station, trying to lure an elephant away from the villages. He puts in a lot of effort and energy, trying to persuade the elephant by tossing mangoes to the other side of the road, but the elephant is stubborn and continues on its path. Eventually, after about an hour, it decides to wander into another part of the forest, and the ranger can finally relax. It wasn’t what we came to this area for, but it was definitely quite the experience!
During our short walk on the banks of a river, we find tiny African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis) that are just metamorphosed, a big Flat-backed toad (Sclerophrys maculata), a Five-lined Skink (Trachylepis quinquetaeniata), a few Savanna Puddle Frogs (Phrynobatrachus latifrons) and a Togo Lidless Skink (Panaspis togoensis).
On our way to the ranger station, we found a very nice road for road-cruising and tonight we give it a try. It is clear rather quickly that this road will not bring us much. It is suddenly full with big trucks driving up and down. We park the car on the side and decide to head into the forest on foot. It doesn’t take long before we spot an Elegant Sand Snake (Psammophis elegans). We find again a lot of African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis), and our first Clawed Frog of the trip, a Fischberg's Clawed Frog (Xenopus fishbergi). A cute Matschie's Half-toed Gecko (Hemidactylus matschiei) concludes our day.
Sokodé
28th May 2025
Today we try our luck in a different part of the forest. It is very hot and sticky, even just walking five steps gets you soaking wet. And despite all that, the activity isn’t really picking up either. We do spot a few Mottled Squeakers (Arthroleptis poecilonotus complex) and Villier’s Puddle Frog (Phrynobatrachus villiersi). The Villier's Puddle Frog has not been recorded in Togo before, so we're excited about this amazing range extension! As is becoming usual, African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis) seem to be everywhere.
We spot a couple of Senegal Skinks (Trachylepis affinis), and one nice little sighting: a male and female Spiny-necked Forest Gecko (Ancylodactylus spinicollis) side by side on the same tree trunk.
None of us is feeling very well today and the heat and the humidity is wearing us down. No one really has the energy to push on much longer tonight, so we call it a day and head to bed early. Fingers crossed we feel better tomorrow
Sokodé to Kara
29th May 2025
We leave early this morning to drive to a new part of forest in between Sokodé and Kara. It’s a beautiful scenery with some hills and lush forest. We find Spiny-necked Forest Gecko (Ancylodactylus spinicollis), more Common Agamas (Agama agama) and a gorgeous and big West African Forest Gecko (Hemidactylus kyaboboensis). Before we have to start our drive to our next destination, Kara, we find a freshly shed Striped Olympic Snake (Psammophis lineatus).
We continue our drive to Kara, which is Togo’s second biggest city. The hotel grounds are full of giant Ragazzi's Fan-footed Geckos (Ptyodactylus ragazzii) that we get to watch from our dinner table. We are staying at the hotel of the president’s wife, which has a very cute restaurant and we’re all happy we can eat some ‘western’ food such as pizza and spaghetti.
Kara
30th May 2025
We only have one full day in Kara and we are dedicated on finding a West African Carpet Viper (Echis ocellatus). Our local guide says he knows a guy ‘without a phone’ who might be able to help. We decide to trust him and drive to a remote village where we manage to find the guy. He is a bit hesitant, because he says it’s too dangerous. Eventually he decides that Dickson looks like he will be able to handle the situation and he takes us for a walk in the fields behind the village. It is very hot, at only 9.00 in the morning. Every step we take it seems to be getting hotter and I wonder how long we will be able to keep going. The search turns out ‘easier’ than expected when Dickson whistles his ‘I-found-something’-tune and we rush over to him. Laying under some dried leaves is a beautiful, adult West African Carpet Viper (Echis ocellatus). It is just incredible that this little snake is so deadly. We admire it for a while before we notice the heat again and decide to wrap up and get out of the sun.
In the afternoon we go back into the forest again where we spot more Spiny-necked Forest Gecko (Ancylodactylus spinicollis), but where the highlight are an Olive Marsh Snake (Natriciteres olivacea) and a brightly colored juvenile Puff Adder (Bitis arietans).
From Kara to Kpalimé
31st May 2025
We have a long day of traveling today, but we decide to stop at the place where we spotted West African Forest Geckos (Hemidactylus kyaboboensis) on the way to Kara. This time we’re lucky as we manage to spot a big, beautifully marked individual.
On our way to the South-West of the country, we see the drier habitat changing into green and lush forests. We also see the population increasing and everywhere we drive now are little villages. The roadside is full with Teak-wood plantations and the natural forest seems to be disappearing. We arrive in Kpalimé that is wet, green and a bit more hilly than we’ve seen before. We check-in to a very nice accommodation, surrounded by a little bit of forest, yet still on the main road. Surprisingly, this is where we spot our first West-African African Half-toed House Gecko (Hemidactylus mabouia) in our rooms.
Since we’ve had a long drive, we don’t feel like hopping in the car again to drive to another forest patch. We decide to explore around our accommodation. It is not that big, and there is human activity clearly visible with little paths leading to houses. Despite that, the evening turns out rather exciting! We spot a, high on my list, Emerald Snake (Hapsidophrys smaragdinus) sleeping high up in a tree. What a stunning snake! And a bit later we find a tiny African Banded Snake (Chamaelycus fasciatus). There is lots of African Half-toed House Gecko (Hemidactylus mabouia) and some West African Forest Geckos (Hemidactylus kyaboboensis).
Kpalimé
1st June 2025
In the morning we find Dickson already out for a stroll around the hotel and before we can even blink our eyes, he tells us he found something special. We rush over and he found a gorgeous, adult Forest Vine Snake (Thelotornis kirtlandii). Whoa whoa whoa!!! What a start of the day!
We head out to another part of the forest with beautiful views over the region. The forest, however, is very disturbed and after every few hundred meters, there’s another agricultural field. There is not much left of this forest. The morning brings some Guinea Writhing Skinks (Mochlus guineensis), and surprise surprise, African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis). There are many Common Agamas (Agama agama). We also see our first (alive) Slender Chameleon (Chamaeleo gracilis). We found one dead on the road in Kara, but we’re excited we finally find one alive.
In the evening we find many more Slender Chameleons (Chamaeleo gracilis), and again African Tiger Frogs (Hoplobatrachus occipitalis). We keep pointing them out to each other, of course. We are walking next to a little stream when Dickson suddenly ‘dives’ in. He comes back with a Greer's Keeled Water Skink (Cophoscincopus greeri). For all of us the first Water Skink! The rest of the evening we see more Slender Chameleons (Chamaeleo gracilis), Northern Flat-backed Toad (Sclerophrys maculata), and Senegal Skinks (Trachylepis affinis) and the evening brings more snakes! We, of course I mean Dickson, finds a Spotted Night Adder (Causus maculatus). She is very skinny, might she have given birth relatively recently? Let’s hope she can find some good food soon! A little bit later, Dickson spots a Pale Wolf Snake (Lycophidion irroratum).
Kpalimé
2nd June 2025
This morning we are driving towards Mount Agou, which turns out to be longer than expected and we start our walk a bit later. A local guide has brought us to a nice place to walk, but unfortunately also here there is not much left of the forest. There is a little forest patch left at the bottom of the mountain, but the higher sides are almost completely converted into cassava plantations. Higher up the mountain it gets steeper and Dickson decides to give it a try while André and I enjoy the views. After a while, Dickson comes back saying it doesn’t look very promising with a lot of disturbance. The only thing we see this morning is a Northern Flat-backed Toad (Sclerophrys maculata).
We decide to leave this place early and ask our guide whether there is any crocodiles in the area. “Yes”, he says, claiming they are easy to see and always there. Excitedly, we tell him to bring us to the area and we give it a try. We arrive at the spot, surrounded by houses and farms and we can’t believe there might be crocodiles in this little swamp. Confident, the guide walks towards the bush, with Dickson right behind him. We tell Dickson to be careful, as we don’t know what we might find. Well, one thing was clear quite quickly: no way there would be Nile Crocodiles in this area. Dickson walks in front, while André and I stay behind a bit. It is very bush and a bit swampy. Suddenly Dickson shouts; “GREEN MAMBA”. André and I make our way through the thick bush, to find Dickson staring at a Green Mamba (at this point we don’t know which species yet) basking while beautifully laying in the branches. It turns out to be an absolutely gorgeous adult West African Green Mamba (Dendroaspis viridis). This is the absolute highlight of our trip!
Our evening stroll brings one more snake, a Powered Tree Snake (Toxicodryas pulverulenta).
Kpalimé
3rd June 2025
Our last day, and one more place to visit. We arrive at the gate , where we have to wait quite a while because it seems no one expects tourists here. While waiting, we spot a Togo Lidless Skink (Panaspis togoensis). When we finally get in, the excitement grows! It doesn’t take long before Dickson spots the first frog we’re hoping to find! A juvenile De Roo's Giant Frog (Conraua derooi). It is small, but we’re still happy to have seen this special species. But Dickson and our local guide don’t give up. They make their way through a huge drainage pipe and find an individual that can be really called De Roo's Giant Frog. What a gorgeous frog, absolutely spectacular!
In the evening, we go out to look for frogs once more and have a lovely last evening of our trip. We spot many frogs and add two new species to the list Baumann's Reed Frog (Hyperolius baumanni) and West African White-lipped Frog (Amnirana sp. 'albolabris West').
Departure
4th June 2025
Before we leave for Lomé and the airport, we have one last stroll around the accommodation and find another, this time a bit smaller, Forest Vine Snake (Thelotornis kirtlandii). This individual is very colorful and we’re excited that we get to admire one more snake before we have to leave.
But unfortunately our time is up and we start our drive back to Lomé. We arrive on time and we have a lovely last lunch together, looking back and discussing all our incredible sightings in this beautiful country. We are sad that we have to part ways now, but we know that soon we’ll see each other again!
Many thanks to André for sharing his pictures and being such great company and sharing these adventures with us. For all pictures, please visit https://freanonherping.be/Togo2025map.htm These pictures wouldn't have been made without the amazing skills of Dickson Katana.
With many thanks to Professor Segniagbeto and Assou for their kind and warm welcome, all their expertise and local recommendations. Without them, this trip wouldn’t have been as successful.
Also many thanks to Stephen Spawls and Alan Channing for their expertise and knowledge by helping us with the identification and determination of the species we’ve encountered.
Amphibian list
1. Xenopus fishbergi - Fischberg's Clawed Frog
2. Sclerophrys regularis - Common Toad
3. Sclerophrys maculata - Northern Flat-backed Toad
4. Phrynomantis microps - West African Rubber Frog
5. Hemisus marmoratus - Marbled Piglet Frog
6. Kassina senegalensis - Senegal Running Frog
7. Afrixalus dorsalis - Striped Spiny Reed Frog
8. Afrixalus vittiger - Pyjama Spiny Reed Frog
9. Hyperolius fusciventris - Dark-bellied Reed Frog
10. Hyperolius baumanni - Baumann's Reed Frog
11. Leptopelis viridis - Green Tree Frog
12. Arthroleptis poecilonotus complex - Mottled Squeaker
13. Phrynobatrachus alleni - Allen's Puddle Frog
14. Phrynobatrachus natalensis - Natal Puddle Frog
15. Phrynobatrachus latifrons - Savanna Puddle Frog
16. Phrynobatrachus villiersi - Villier's Puddle Frog
17. Ptychadena mascareniensis - Mascarene Grass Frog
18. Ptychadena bibronii - Bibron's Grass Frog
19. Ptychadena tellini - Tellini's Grass Frog
20. Conraua derooi - De Roo's Giant Frog
21. Hoplobatrachus occipitalis - African Tiger Frog
22. Amnirana galamensis - Galam White-lipped Frog
23. Amnirana sp. 'albolabris West' - West African White-lipped Frog
Range extensions
Previously not listed in Togo
Cophoscincopus greeri
Trachylepis aureogularis
Literature
Range extension
Yes
Yes
Trapé, 2012
Trapé, 2012
Pelusios niger
Trapé, 2012
Yes
Philothamnus heterolepidotus
Chippaux, 2019
Yes
Phrynobatrachus alleni
Channing, 2019
Yes
Phrynobatrachus villiersi
Channing, 2019
Yes
Reptile list
1. Agama agama - Common Agama
2. Chamaeleo gracilis - Slender Chameleon
3. Chamaeleo senegalensis - Senegal Chameleon
4. Ancylodactylus spinicollis - Spiny-necked Forest Gecko
5. Hemidactylus mabouia - African Half-toed House Gecko
6. Hemidactylus matschiei - Matschie's Half-toed Gecko
7. Hemidactylus kyaboboensis - West African Forest Gecko
8. Lygodactylus fischeri - Fischer's Dwarf Gecko
9. Ptyodactylus ragazzii - Ragazzi's Fan-footed Gecko
10. Cophoscincopus greeri - Greer's Keeled Water Skink
11. Mochlus guineensis - Guinea Writhing Skink
12. Trachylepis affinis - Senegal Skink
13. Trachylepis paucisquamis - Western Forest Skink
14. Trachylepis quinquetaeniata - Five-lined Skink
15. Panaspis togoensis - Togo Lidless Skink
16. Pelusios castaneus - Western Hinged Terrapin
17. Pelomedusa variabilis - Variable Helmeted Turtle
18. Python regius - Royal Python
19. Chamaelycus fasciatus - African Banded Snake
20. Goniotophis granti - Grant's File Snake
21. Lycophidion irroratum - Pale Wolf Snake
22. Psammophis elegans - Elegant Sand Snake
23. Psammophis lineatus - Striped Olympic Snake
24. Psammophis mossambicus - Olive Sand Snake
25. Natriciteres olivacea - Olive Marsh Snake
26. Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia - Common Herald Snake
27. Hapsidophrys smaragdinus - Common Emerald Snake
28. Philothamnus heterolepidotus - Slender Bush Snake
29. Philothamnus nitidus - Bright Bush Snake
30. Philothamnus smithii - Smith's Bush Snake
31. Thelotornis kirtlandii - Forest Vine Snake
32. Toxicodryas pulverulenta - Powdered Tree Snake
33. Atracaspis aterrima (DOR) - Slender burrowing asp
34. Bitis arietans - Puff Adder
35. Causus maculatus - Spotted Night Adder
36. Echis ocellatus - West African Carpet Viper
37. Dendroaspis viridis - West African Green Mamba